Extending your home

The building process of converting your loft will vary depending on the size and complexity of the conversion. It will also vary with individual builders who may prefer to slightly modify the activities from the order shown below.

Our intention is to provide you with an overview of how a loft is converted, using photographs to show each of the key stages.

1
The first stage is to form access into the loft, usually via an external scaffold. This is often positioned in the location of a dormer or a rooflight. For large dormer windows, a full width scaffold will be required.
2
Most lofts will require new steels beams to be fitted and these are usually fitted first as they will carry the load of the new structure.
3
With the new steel beams in place, the new floor joists are fitted which will generally be alongside the existing ceiling joists which will remain. You may need to move water tanks and other services at this stage.
4
Once the new floor structure is in place, the internal perimeter walls (commonly known as ashlering walls) can be formed which also act as support to the roof. The existing roof struts and purlins can then be removed.
5
Openings for the rooflights can be formed and the rooflights installed.
6
Many lofts include the provision of dormer windows and the framework for these can now be added, ensuring they are made watertight as quickly as possible.
7
Once the rooflights are installed and the dormers formed, the loft conversion is beginning to take shape. The remaining internal stud walls can now be formed.
8
In some areas the planners will require special conservation rooflights such as these which have a lower profile and normally include a central glazing bar.
9
To create a really spectacular loft, you may wish to fit a glazed section of roof as shown here. However, Be aware of the limitations that may be imposed by Building Regulations regarding heat loss.
10
Some lofts require specialist structural design due to the limitations of the existing structure. In this example, attic trusses are craned into position which will form the structure of the new loft rooms.
11
With the new attic trusses in place, the existing roof struts and timbers can be removed as required.
12
On some occasions, a temporary roof such as this may need to be formed over your property. This is usually where there is extensive reshaping of the roof or a complete new roof installation.
13
In some loft conversions such as a hip to gable alteration, new external walls will need to be formed.
14
Once the new floor structure is in place the staircase can be fitted.
15
Your existing staircase balustrade will usually have to be altered to accommodate the new staircase.
16
Where required, existing walls will need to be altered and new internal walls erected.
17
With all the carpentry carcassing works complete, the plumber can complete all ‘first fix’ (i.e. pre-plastering) piping works. The existing tanks which may have been temporarily relocated can be removed or repositioned depending on which system you will be using.
18
The electrician can also carry out his first fix works at this stage so you will need to be clear about where you want lights, switches and sockets positioned.
19
The loft can now be insulated and plasterboarded as well as fitting the new floor boarding
20
You may decide to make a feature of any existing chimney stacks within the roof space although this will be limited by Building Regulations.
21
The dormer windows can be finished externally including fitting any new windows and completing the new gutters.
22
Some windows will require specialist finishes such as this vertical lead cladding which matches well with old slate roofs.
23
Once all the plasterboarding has been completed, the loft walls and ceilings can be plastered.
24
Plastering in lofts is often more complex than standard extensions due to the number of slopes, angles and changes in wall line.
25
Once plastering has been completed, ‘second fix’ (i.e. after plastering) works can be finished off. This includes fitting internal doors, skirtings, plumbing, heating and electrics.
26
As part of the second fix works, the balustrading to the new staircase can be completed.
27
Any new bathrooms can be fitted out with new sanitaryware and tiling. Most loft conversions utilise the existing soil pipe to connect new bathrooms into but, in certain circumstances, you may also have to provide new below ground drainage and a new soil pipe.
28
Even with sloping ceilings, a well designed bathroom will give you plenty of space to make use of.
29
The rooms can now be decorated either by your contractor or yourselves.
30
With decorating complete, you will find that the rooms seem bigger and in most cases you will be able to enjoy views of the area from a completely new perspective.
31
Although loft conversions do use up existing storage space, you can still keep low level storage in the eaves which can be accessed by doors such as these.
32
With decorating works complete, final floor finishes such as carpeting can be carried out. Many homeowners choose to replace the existing stairs and landing carpet so that the finish provides continuity between the old and the new.
33
The final stage is really down to you in providing furniture and your own finishing touches.
34
Whatever you choose to use the space for, a well built loft conversion will provide you with much needed additional room and will add value to your home.
35
The secret of a successful loft conversion is blending the old and the new together to give the impression that it was always part of the original building.

How can we help?

Project Management Services

At myhome mygarden, we offer a full architectural and project management service for loft conversions. We take full responsibility for the work by entering into a contract with you and will use carefully selected approved contractors to carry out the work.

See the Project Management section of our site for more information.

Call us Free on 0800 3800 141 to find out more.

Building Process

How can we help?

Project Management Services