If you want a new lawn, you have the choice of sowing seed or laying turf and whichever you choose, the ground must be well prepared – it should be well drained, level and clear of weeds.

Laying turf will give you an ‘instant lawn’ which will be usable within about eight weeks but it is more expensive than a seeded lawn and you will be more limited in your choice of grass type.

Seeded lawns are cheaper but it will be about 12 months before they are suitable to withstand heavy wear.

Preparing the site

The site should ideally be prepared several months in advance which will give it time to settle.

For sowing or turfing in autumn, start the preparation in early summer.

1. Remove debris and clear site

The first task is to clear away any bricks, rubbish or rubble – this is quite likely to have been left by the builder if you have moved into a new house. 

Dig out any trees roots or stumps and then dig out perennial weeds. Apply a suitable weedkiller.

Think carefully about any trees you wish to keep as lawns do not like to be shade.

2. Grade the site

If the levels in the area of your lawn are not how you want them, the next stage is to grade the site. It doesn't have to be perfectly horizontal as slight slope will aid drainage but you should remove any bumps or hollows.

The best method of grading the site is to bang in wooden pegs and mark the side at the desired level. For major level changes, remove the topsoil first and set aside before forming new levels.

You should end up with at least 150mm (6”) of topsoil so be careful when reducing bumps that you don’t end up with a thin layer or none at all.

3. Provide Drainage

Good drainage is essential for a first rate lawn although it is only generally clay soils that will require more than digging over.

If you are grading the site (see step 2 above), then the drainage can be added at the same time. Otherwise add it at the same time as step 4. below.

The best method for imperious clay is to lay land drains surrounded in gavel but this can prove expensive. A more simple system is to spread a layer of crushed stone finished with a layer of grit or coarse sand above the clay subsoil and below the topsoil.

You may also wish to form soakaways (600mm x 600mm x 600mm deep pits filled with broken bricks or large stones finished with a 150mm layer of grit or coarse sand below the topsoil) at the lowest point of the lawn.

4. Dig the site

Digging should be done to a depth of about 225mm (9”) or less if the topsoil is shallow. You should avoid digging up the sub-soil and you should dig when the soil is reasonably dry.

For heavy soil, you should work in lime-free sand when digging and for clay, fork the bottom of the trench to the full depth of the prongs. In lighter soil, it is a good idea to work in some peat.

Remove any roots, stones and perennial weeds as you go.

Once digging is complete, break down any clods with your feet or the back of a rake or fork as this will avoid bumps and hollows in your lawn. You may wish to use a rotary cultivator for large sites.

5. Firm the site

About a week after digging, choose a day when the soil is fairly dry and tread over the site with the weight on your heels to eliminate any soft spots that might sink later on, giving an uneven surface. Repeat at right angles.

6. Preparing for sowing or turfing.

The final preparation should be to rake the soil and hoe off any seedling weeds. A few days before laying turf or sowing, lightly rake in a balanced organic or compound granular fertilizer.

It is a good idea to use a long, straight plank to check for any minor bumps and hollows.

Sowing Seed

You will have to decide on the type of lawn you want as this will dictate the seed mixture you require.

Luxury Grade mixtures will normally have a high content of fescues. Utility Grade mixtures vary enormously and generally contain a mixture of fine-leaved and coarser grasses.

Make sure your mixture is suitable for your soil type and get further advice if you have a shady site as these will often include meadow grasses.

The best time to sow a lawn is in early autumn when the soil is lawn and moist. You could also sow in the spring but you will need to water the lawn more.

Step 1

Pick a day when the soil is dry underfoot and the weather is calm and dry.

Most people scatter seed by hand although you may wish to use a seed distributor if you are covering a large area.

If sowing by hand, divide the area into 1m (3ft) squares with string or canes and weigh out enough seed following the instructions on the packet.

It is a good idea to use a plastic cup which you can mark once you have weighed out the first amount and use as a measure.

Step 2

For even distribution, scatter half the seed in one direction and the other half at right angles to it.

Use the same procedure if sowing mechanically.

Sow at least 75mm (3”) past the finished edge so that a clean edge can be cut once the grass has grown.

Step 3

Remove the canes or string and lightly rake over the area with a spring tine rake.

Protect from birds with netting or criss-crossed strands of string.

Step 4

Seedlings should appear within 14 days. Water regularly using a fine spray as anything too coarse may wash the seedlings out of the ground.

When the grass is 50-75mm (2-3”) tall, remove any stones and brush away worm casts and roll with the back roller of a cylinder mower to firm up the soil.

A few days later you can carry out the first cut but only cut about 12mm (1/2”) the first time.

You should avoid heavy traffic on the new lawn for the first 12 months.

Laying Turf

The best time to lay turf is early autumn or early spring.

Step 1

Plan your work in advance as it is not good to keep turf rolled up and unused. If you do need to store it, unroll it with the grass side up onto paving or plastic sheeting and water if necessary.

Step 2

When laying the turf, the soil should be moist but not wet. Lay the first row of turves along one edge of the site, tamping down each piece with the back of a garden rake. This will eliminate air pockets and bring the turf into close contact with the soil, encouraging it to root.

For curved areas, lay a line of turves around the outside border first.

Use full sized turves for the edges – put any smaller pieces inside from the edge or else they are likely to dry out.

Step 3

Make a tight seam with the adjacent piece of turf – it helps to raise the edges slightly and then push them together. Push down with your thumbs and tamp down along the seams.

Step 4

Continue to lay the turves in rows and protect the turf that has been laid by working on a plank.

Continue until site is covered, firming as you go by tamping with the back of a rake. Use staggered joints similar to the bricks in a wall.

Step 5

Scatter fine sandy loam or good topsoil mixed with horticultural sand over the surface. Brush it well into the joints to fill any gaps and to encourage the turves to knit together.

Step 6

Edge the lawn using a sharp spade, an old bread knife or edger – always cut to a guide such as a plank of wood or a hose for curved edges.

Looking after your lawn.

Give a good watering and keep well watered to prevent turves drying out. Watch edges and corners as these are more likely to dry out.

Keep off your new lawn for at least three weeks to give it chance to root. – to test how well the grass has rooted, try peeling back one corner – if the turf does not lift easily, it will have rooted and the lawn can be mowed as necessary.

Keep the blade high at around 40mm (1.25”) for the first few months